No guide but it’s pretty straightforward. I used this kit for the shell/screen/battery is here and the regulator is here. For the regulator, you should have some experience desoldering pins.

I’m not aware of any that are kept reliability in stock. You can get new sticks, gears and bowls (plastic ones that will have the same problem over time, but much cheaper). I would get new sticks to go with these bowls. https://store.kitsch-bent.com/products/n64-joystick-thumbstick

Thanks! Practice makes perfect

Ninten-drawer is a modern sliding replacement tray for the NES. It is more reliable than the cheap replacement 72 pin connector and doesn’t have a death grip on the cartridge. https://youtu.be/4lpCNMxGW3s

N64 controller stick modules work by spinning rotary encoders as the stick moves. The stick is and the bowl (typo in title haha) that keeps it in place are made of plastic. Overtime, both the stick and the bowl wear down and get loose. Using a steal bowl with a new stick keeps the original feel with much less grinding.

I get this is supposed to be a joke but why is it funny?

I’ll be really curious when it comes out if it will have the same homebrew limitations like the Mister core.

I like to take one step further and use a white pencil eraser followed by IPA. Helps get more of the dirt and oxidation off.

I’m going to take the lazy approach approach and go with the funny playing board. I would also have to buy one of their slots anyway since this also had a few mangled pins.

I would swap the power supply over to the new board before doing anything like a towel fix (generally those don’t last long term and risk damaging other parts of the system). It is possible to do reball yourself but it’s some of the most advanced soldering you can do. This video shows a similar process around the 18min mark(the chip in this case is a PS5 ssd controller) https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pJSheZ6A8Qo&t=671s&pp=2AGfBZACAQ%3D%3D

One thing to try is the washer fix. It probably wouldn’t work long term but it could tell you if your APU needs to be reballed https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+4+Turns+On+Then+Back+Off+Repair/55599

Definitely not spearmint, tastes too spicy

I’ve had luck using kapton around plastic parts. The fresh solder really helps melt the components quicker. I also use a nozzle to help concentrate the heat in the area and prevent it from blowing directly on plastic parts. Depending on the board, you can go no nozzle and heat from below (which is how I replaced a PS5 ribbon connector).

Thanks. Hot air in this case. The process I use for this is to add fresh leaded solder, then some extra flux. After that, just keep moving around the hot air nozzle.

Here is the cpu removed, luckily only one pin was partially corroded.

It’s doubtful any other cores will be present on the 3d, they have posted that it will not support openFPGA.

Or someone looking to buy their first. The user experience (menu wise) on the 4k line is so much nicer than the 5x in my opinion.

This is Luigi Mangione’s xray, showing his back pain issue.

Tech support brain completely missed that one lol

The post definitely has a photo.

No boot screen, just a black screen with no audio