Alt-text:
Unfortunately, SawStart is one-use-only. Once started, the blade cannot be stopped, and must be replaced with a fresh blade while the running one is carefully disposed of.
Alt-text:
Unfortunately, SawStart is one-use-only. Once started, the blade cannot be stopped, and must be replaced with a fresh blade while the running one is carefully disposed of.
It doesn’t ask you to subtract the numbers, but to calculate the distance (i.e. the absolute value of the subtraction). So depending on which numbers are paired up, the sign of the pair can be different.
Alt text:
The zoo takes special care to keep kings separated from opposite-color pieces as part of their conservation program to prevent mating in captivity.
Unpopular opinion: The license makes sense and should have been enforced from the start.
The Benchy is a benchmarking tool, not just visually but there are also various features you can measure and check against the dimensions on the website. But that doesn’t work if the model you’re printing has been modified.
If it looks like a beachy, it should have been printed from the original model, so it’s always comparable. Preventing derivatives means you can be sure of that, even if it came on the included SD card with your printer. Otherwise, manufacturers could include a modified model that makes their printers look better than they are.
If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.
eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.
For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).
HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren’t too intrusive the last time I tried it)
That’s probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you’re redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.
It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.
Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).
You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.
Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.
So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.
Sure, the skull is biodegradable. But didn’t you know that large-scale human farming is responsible for the vast majority of CO2 emissions?!
Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I’ll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.
Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜
Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.
As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn’t make a huge difference, as long as it’s from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.
Thanks for your help!
Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!
This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.
What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.
It looks to me like a JST SH connector: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10357
Measure the distance between the two pins - if it is 1 mm, this is most likely the connector you’re looking for.
From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.
My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.
I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.
You can bring the resting position of the brake lever closer to the handlebar by turning this screw clockwise. The brake lever looks a bit short for my taste, it’s probably not designed for use with that type of shifter. But with a bit of adjustment it should still be usable.
Do you expect every meme to be meticulously handcrafted? It’s a stupid joke, not a work of art.
From the IRF1404Z data sheet:
You need to design the PCB so that the heat from the legs can be properly dissipated, or they won’t live up to the rated current.
Also, traces on a PCB are much thinner than those legs. A trace with the same cross-sectional area would be impractically wide.