Usually because you actually own the retail/physical version but they can rescind access to a digital copy at any point.

But I usually buy old games or new ones second hand, so, I exist on a slightly different market place…

Good to see them embracing the mantle of the Nasty Party once again. What the fuck is going on!

I get the MSRP outrage, but I mean it’s not an unusual cost for launch day titles, especially for physical media.

I don’t think I’ve ever paid full retail for any game or console I’ve ever owned though. And I do like to own my games by buying physical media (or at least the installer files).

Wild. Possibly market rates are different - don’t know if the EUR is particularly weak right now? I don’t follow the conversion rates…

What games currently cost that much though, is my question really, I guess. The last expensive titles I can see right now for standard editions of games is like, 70Eur equivalent for AAA type titles.

I mean I own a switch, and I’ve never paid anything close to that for games… I’ve gone to maybe £45-50 for launch titles but what games cost £70?

Who the hell is paying 90EUR for switch games?

Bought 35 years ago :sadface:

You beat me to it!

KP make amazing snacks.

Would it be better if I did it in my pizza oven?

You’re adorable.

It doesn’t look that weird to me, but I’m not sure that reflects worse on me…

There’s something special about corner shop brands. They always have the best dolly mix.

Well, RIP my waistline then I suppose!

I ate mountains of Ye Olde Oak hotdogs as a student.

I’m now a vegetarian but some days I do think back fondly to them. My usual “guilty pleasure” snack now is a “bagel pizza” - cheap bagel, ketchup, slices of cheddar grilled to be just barely melted. I had it once at a friends’ house whose mum was Canadian, and it lives rent free in my mind.

He also taught me D&D, painted me a Kroot Auxiliary tau army(!) and was/is a wonderfully odd chap.

On an ideal (working) morning if be up a couple of hours before I need to leave the house to bathe, make breakfast and something for lunch, clean the kitchen a little (which is my domain in the house), sit and watch TV or read for a bit, then leave with plenty of time to get to work.

Sometimes I manage this.

Otherwise it’s snooze the alarm a few times, get out of bed, shower, make some toast quickly, lob some food at the cats and leave a little later than ideal, and get to work just in time.

Unfortunately my partner works from home and gets up later than me so my comfy bed has a chronic cuddler in it, and she’s normally surrounded by our cats too so my bed is a wonderful nest that’s difficult to crawl out from.

Yeah, this is always a good one! It’s why I always recommend working cheap to expensive (usually quite an efficient way to spend working time too).

I used to alarm customers by flexing their frames to show them the creak couldn’t have been their BB and was in fact a contact point (usually saddles or sweated-on stems).

Bikes are surprisingly bendy if you’re not expecting them to be!

The worst “surprise creak” I ever had was in my first year as a jobbing tech - turned out to be a dry QR skewer! Thankfully I had an ex-pro race tech to help me out.

Creaks can be tricky on any bike but I’d work my way from cheap to expensive which it sounds like you’re already doing.

1. Pedal bearings (sounds dumb but there’s nothing worse than spending hours on stripping a bike and finding that it’s just a bum pedal!).
2. Crank arms - check the torque and, for peace of mind remove, grease, and refit (ensuring correct torque).

Since you’ve done these then it’s tike for a bit more in depth work. The next two I usually do simultaneously:

3. Motor housing - see above, grit and grime can get in and cause noise. Remove, clean, refit, and potentially a touch of grease on contact points.
4. Motor mounts - this is 99% of the time the culprit of the creaking occurs on both sides of the bike and can be replicated with the bike static. As with everything else: remove, clean, grease and and all contact points and replace, with correct torque. I’ve done lots of Bosch equipped bikes with similar symptoms as yours which this resolves.

If this doesn’t sort it then it’s likely internal: bearings, etc. some of these are sometimes user serviceable and they’re the typical culrprits, but worst case it’s bike shop time…

Edit! Just a quick post-script to this now I’ve had a few coffees - often I’ve had experiences where motor bolts are just a little under torque, so it’s always worth a quick nip up to spec before you start taking stuff out!

You can certainly reply to them when they appear in the “messages” section of the inbox.

I don’t know about composing and sending them though…

“I was only supporting British entrepreneurs in a commercial landscape dominated by Americans, darling!”