In retrospect, it did give me time to find the more color-appropriate blue marker.

  • over_clox@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    What speed did you burn at?

    I see the top disc is labeled as an 8X max speed burn, but if I recall correctly, burning DVDs over 4X speed involves a changing speed rate and changing laser power throughout the burn, which you (and the drive reading the disc) can see on the data side. Some drives don’t exactly like the banding effect this causes.

    If you want good reliable burned DVDs, I’d recommend burning at 4X or less, those lower speeds burn at a constant speed and laser power.

    Also helps to make sure you have brand new, perfectly clean and non scratched blanks of course.

    • schipelblorp@sh.itjust.worksOP
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      My first burn targetted 4x and got to about 3.3 on average, I think. Failed. My second burn I realized one episode didn’t copy over for some reason, so I aborted. The third attempt was the lowest available speed–3x. I was using xfburn on Linux.

    • qupada@fedia.io
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      I used to hoof it at 16x on single-layer DVD+R discs back in the day (talking 20 years ago at this point), whole disc done in about 5 minutes. Never had an issue with those.

      The phenomenon you’re referring to is called “Zoned Constant Linear Velocity”, for anyone looking for a new Wikipedia reading rabbit hole :)

      Can’t say I ever tried a dual-layer blank, can only imagine they’re a bit more touchy about speeds and feeds.

      • over_clox@lemmy.world
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        Oof. Yeah, I’ve had the pleasure of burning a few double layer discs before, I wouldn’t go over 2X speed with those (the blanks aren’t exactly cheap).

        Glad you had good luck on 16X back then, but are they holding up these days? 🤔

        I dunno, but I always kept my burn speeds dialed back to reliable safe levels. You only gotta burn it once, so go drink a beer and smoke a joint with some friends while it burns.

        You only gotta burn it once, so why rush it? You want a reliable disc that reads reliably hundreds if not thousands of times…

        • krigo666@lemmy.world
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          Most media is low quality nowadays, even common brands. For example, there hasn’t been no real M-Disc media for sale for years, the original manufacturer has ceased operations. What is called M-Disc that you find in the shelfs are organic discs, they will degrade in a few years. Resellers, specially big names, just don’t care.

              • CorrectAlias@piefed.blahaj.zone
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                I think the conclusion that a lot of people in the DH spheres came to is that it seemed to be a change of inorganic material, not necessarily starting to use organic dyes. This change reduced their lifetimes from 1,000 years (with the OG millennia disc) to a few hundred. This would be in the ballpark for high quality MABL discs, which are still inorganic. It’s true that the substrate changed, but that didn’t make the substrate organic. Your link does not say that they changed to organic dyes, it only mentions organic dyes being the most commonly used and why M-Discs were originally made.

                Realistically, I only need my backups to last 50 or so years, and I’m not updating them frequently enough for it to become a hassle. I think as long as you’re following the 3-2-1 rule (or 4-3-2) for important data, these can’t hurt to have as a part of that solution, and that it’s likely that they’ll last at least 50 years.

        • qupada@fedia.io
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          It would be fun to test, there’s still a big disc wallet buried somewhere in the (hot and occasionally humid) garage, undoubtedly including some of those 20 year old ones. Worst possible storage conditions for recordable media.

          The larger issue however is there is no longer a single device in the house capable of reading one, and hasn’t been for a number of years.

          Also a significant fraction of them were Linux install media. Not in the modern nudge-nudge-wink-wink-we’re-really-talking-piracy-here “Linux ISOs” sense, but actual Linux ISOs, which would be used a couple of times (maybe even only once) then discarded once superseded by a newer version.

          It would be at least another couple of years after that period in history before I could afford a) sufficient hard drive space to not have to burn and delete things straight away after downloading them and b) flash drive(s) large enough to do away with optical media for that use case.

  • BlackLaZoR@lemmy.world
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    My NEC3520A Never failed writing a disc. Not a single time. It also never broke despite running for many years. It’s still somewhere in my parents house

  • i_stole_ur_taco@lemmy.ca
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    You don’t need to pirate this movie.

    If you just say “oh boy, I’d like to watch Avatar: The Last Airbender” out loud, Night will show up at your door with a copy and will insist on watching it with you.

    • schipelblorp@sh.itjust.worksOP
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      This is the original and brilliant animated TV show from Nickelodeon.

      I only know about the movie from hilarious YouTube take downs. I’ve seen an army of earth benders perform a parade drill to throw a single rock like a thousand times.

    • schipelblorp@sh.itjust.worksOP
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      Because I mostly watch TV through thrifted DVDs (and rarely blu-ray). What I don’t have the money for, I get through other means. A Blu-ray burner is pretty expensive, when I looked into it, and so are blanks, so DVDs it is.

      Long term plan is to build a media server with a Raspberry Pie; might give me better survivability with magentic backups. I hear DVD quality has gone down hill.

      • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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        I’m not the person who asked but I assumed these would be music from some artist I don’t recognize named AVATARITLA

        • schipelblorp@sh.itjust.worksOP
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          Avatar: The Last Airbender, not to be confused with Avatar (blue aliens), or The Last Airbender (unproduced movie) or Avatar: The Last Aibender (live action, 2024).

          A:TLA in internet lingo

  • Since people talk about their experiences with lower speed, I’ll chime in with one of my drives that makes CD-RW waste of time at 4x and good burns at 10x.

    Anyway, at this point I don’t know if I have 2 bad drives or I am cursed. One’s Optiarc, another LG.
    With the discs I have…

    old text

    Optiarc fails to burn DVD-RW at 4x, but works at 2.4x. It fails to burn CD-RW at 4x, but works at 10x. It fails to read a transparent CD (Lorde Virgin album). It now fails to burn one old DVD-RW disc.
    LG fails to read '94 remastered CD from Bronski Beat (VLC will play it with lots of errors). When trying to burn some DVD-RW, it started accelerating out of control and cracking the disc. It fails to burn DVD-R.

    And now where they work when the other doesn’t.
    Optiarc reads the Bronski Beat CD, it also burns DVD-R just fine.
    LG plays the transparent CD (which someone described as “can it run Crysis” of CDs due to low reflectivity). It burns that bad DVD-RW disc just fine.

    Actually, let me make it a table.

    Challenge Optiarc LG
    Playing transparent CD N Y
    Playing Bronski Beat '94 remastered CD Y N
    Burning Memorex DVD-R Y N
    Burning Kaufland DVD-RW Y N (chance of shredding the disc)
    Burning Verbatim DVD-RW N Y
    Burning Verbatim CD-RW P (10x only) Y
    • schipelblorp@sh.itjust.worksOP
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      I was looking at M-DISCS, which you’re questioning the provenance of on Amazon, and they’re pretty pricey… you’re adding to the reasons to move to a media server–easily backed up to less-permanent HDDs, but easier to have multiple copies constantly updating.

      I’m not in any rush; I just set the lowest setting and take the dog for a walk. Now that I figured it out, that is.

      Congratulations on a very dull table! I’m glad you kept it.

      Oops. I see we have many professors of dvdology here; I was referring to this fellow:

      https://lemmy.world/comment/24024202