I can hear a bad bearing again, but in my infinite wisdom, I didn’t bother to write down what types of bearings this motor uses the last time I had it disassembled. So here I am again, trying to breathe some new life into these rusty mofos - hopefully, by the time I need to do this a third time, I’ll have clean, new replacements ready for all of them.

Also, I have no idea what I’m doing here, so here’s to hoping all the parts find their way back to the right spots and I don’t break anything else in the process.

Also, note to self: just buy them damn lockring pliers.

EDIT: I didn’t fuck it up.

  • DozensOfDonner@mander.xyz
    6·
    5 days ago

    I’ll join the no-idea-having. Is this a motorbike thing?

    But props for your workspace man, very nicely organized. Those slanted pvc tubes look awesome.

    • Opinionhaver@feddit.ukOPEnglish
      7·
      5 days ago

      Technically yeah, that’s a mid-drive ebike motor - Bafang M400 G330 to be specific.

      And thanks. My shop seems to get attention any time I post pictures from there. Perhaps I should do a dedicated post about the space itself at some point.

      • ag621994@lemmy.dbzer0.com
        2·
        5 days ago

        I have the same motor. How did you know the bearing is gone bad? Mine makes a noise when pedaling hard or a littel harder but i am not sure if it is the same.

        PS. If you find any important part numbers for that go bad overtime can you write them down for me? That thing is like 7 years old and i dont think i will be able to ride much longer without any repairs needed.

        Thank you

        • Opinionhaver@feddit.ukOPEnglish
          5·
          5 days ago

          If you disconnect the chain and just spin the motor, a bad bearing should basically sound like metal grinding with sand in between. It should make that noise whether there’s resistance or not - though in my case, the sound would sometimes disappear for a while and then come back 20 minutes later. If your bike is 7 years old, and you’ve even occasionally ridden in the rain without ever servicing the motor, I’d pretty much guarantee the bearings - and likely the ratcheting mechanism - are shot.

          The ones you’ll probably have to replace are:
          6003RS
          16006RS
          6810RZ

          Then there’s also a needle bearing I don’t have a part number for. If you can find the reduction gear assembly with bearings - including the needle bearing in the center - I’d just go with that, since I have no clue how you’re even supposed to pull those bearings off. The part number for that assembly, or at least the gear the bearings are attached to, is XY 202012161127. If you can get that with the bearings pre-installed, then the only other one you’d need to replace is the 6003RS.

          As for the ratcheting mechanism, I don’t have a part number for it, but there seemed to be plenty available on eBay for around 15 bucks.

          Just note that doing a full service on this thing will easily take 7 hours - probably more. Replacing the entire motor, while expensive, would honestly be way easier.

          If you’re only hearing the noise when pedaling hard, I’d first check your seat and seatpost, crank arms, pedals, and the motor mounts. I had a similar issue before, and it turned out to be the motor mounts - the three bolts that attach the motor to the frame. I’d pull the motor out, clean the contact surfaces and bolts, then reassemble it and see if that helps.

          A few notes:

          • The nut holding the chainring in place (which requires a special socket) has reverse threads.
          • If you overtighten the crankarm on the chainring side, it might get pushed in too far and end up rubbing against the chainring.
          • The motor case has separate threaded holes specifically for disassembly - if you run bolts into those, it’ll help separate the two halves of the case. The same applies to the cover over the reduction gear.
          • If you’re struggling to close the case during reassembly, it’s probably the teeth of the ratcheting mechanism sticking. Try using a small flathead screwdriver to gently push them in one by one while applying light pressure on the case until it slides shut. Don’t force it - it’s snug, but it shouldn’t be tight.
          • Grease is too thick for the ratchet - use something like automatic transmission fluid instead. Same applies to freehubs.

          The reduction gear itself looks like this:

      • DozensOfDonner@mander.xyz
        1·
        5 days ago

        Oh, of course. I still have to get used to the existence of e-bikes for some reason.

        I wouldn’t mind a post about whatever cool ideas build into your shop man. Been dying to clean/remodel my shed as well, and I already went to try those slanted tubes lol, looks pretty useful.

  • Annoyed_🦀 @lemmy.zipEnglish
    3·
    5 days ago

    Is it you that posted your previous motor rebuild here or somewhere? If it is, damn, i don’t recall it being this rusted last time. Did you seal it up with rtv?

    • Opinionhaver@feddit.ukOPEnglish
      2·
      5 days ago

      Maybe, I don’t remember. I’ve posted about my freehub before that looked just as bad if not worse.

      I don’t think it’s the case that lets the water in but the seals on the both ends of the bottom bracket.